Wednesday, January 12, 2011

16 day christmas

Sometimes you just have to sit back and let the world unfold in front of you. Whatever happens, just say thankyou and hope it all happened for the best. Hmmm, the trip ended unreal, scored epic surf courtesy of quickly arranged surf tour courtesy of Sebastian, I will post his info for everyone when I get a chance. Keith and Marilyn and the grommest of gremmies their boy Tyler, at La Buena Vida Hosteleria stoked us out daily with great hospitality, perfect breakfast served all day (as it should be), and a great Aloha spirit.

The last week was greeted with building swell, epic right points, solo sessions or just with friends , the purchasing of a half acre of land a football field from the beach and the adoption of two beautiful vizsla puppies.
epic "empty" right
Stoked Crew after 3 hours at "empty" right
courtesy of SeaBass

epic food

epic beer

Tom Parrish "Empty" Right Quiver
the puppies
the souvenir 100'x100'
Its still flat in NY, somethings never change and its snowed about 10" inches which after 28" in december this no longer constitutes a snow day. Sorry groms no snow day for you.


  1. oh cap't. black,
    You would hate the town of 14 right points, its doesn't suit your spastastic style, nor your straight or die attitude.
    As I banged my head along the dashboard looking at the chance to connect a 4 km. ride, our most radical tour guide Sebastian whispered in my ear, "you think next time you come down you can bring one of those logs from the pictures, perfect for when I get beginners and have to surf the small perfect points" head banging on dash board continues.
    To think, I brought two handboards, a fourth gear flyer surf mat, a 5'2 Fish, a 5'3 Quad, and a 5'11" Channel bottom 2+1 from T Parrish and obstained from the log. My next time in Cali I deserve a flogging.
    And yes we scored some property at a beach break two hours from the airport, it seems very pig friendly. The point breaks in the photo are about two hours from the property or 1 hour from the airport.
    Surfed some good left point close to our place where some guys rode logs like crutches and only waxed up the rear two thirds of their enablers, it made me sad. The surf leader wore a hat and went straight very well, he marveled how his other students could also go straight very well. Going straight may be this years black, take notice all you fashionistas.
    I like alcohol and I dont think i punctuated or spaced my paragraphs very well. Touche ginger beer.