pop goes the knee, MJR nails the money shot a millisecond before I blow out my MCL and crawl to the beach sans board and ego. Tail spins to beach, cant seem to unstick booty from wax, back leg getting twisted and pinned closer to nose, closer, closer, cant fight the gravity, closer, POP...
As alway Neptune wins, the surf has turned on, the days are getting longer, and I am drydocked for 6 weeks.
some bs fun from new years day before the swell actually arrived in Ecuador. Riding the 5'2 concave deck stringerless Dick Van Straalen Fish Snagglefin got me for christmas, it worked great in Ecuador when I barebacked in tropical water. Yesterday with overhead sets and 6/5/4 wetsuit and all the 5 mil boots and gloves i could barely feel the board under me, I suck and so does the cold winter thus far.
On a warmer note, Snaggle and I got invited to a private preseason garden shindig, woohoo, lectures about tropical plants, tips on perennials and creating butterfly gardens amongst other interesting topics. Came home from ecuador with a mailbox full of seed catalogues, time to start planning, days are getting longer, soon it will be time to turn the soil.
Sometimes you just have to sit back and let the world unfold in front of you. Whatever happens, just say thankyou and hope it all happened for the best. Hmmm, the trip ended unreal, scored epic surf courtesy of quickly arranged surf tour courtesy of Sebastian, I will post his info for everyone when I get a chance. Keith and Marilyn and the grommest of gremmies their boy Tyler, at La Buena Vida Hosteleria stoked us out daily with great hospitality, perfect breakfast served all day (as it should be), and a great Aloha spirit.
The last week was greeted with building swell, epic right points, solo sessions or just with friends , the purchasing of a half acre of land a football field from the beach and the adoption of two beautiful vizsla puppies.
epic "empty" right
Stoked Crew after 3 hours at "empty" right
courtesy of SeaBass
Tom Parrish "Empty" Right Quiver
the souvenir 100'x100'
Its still flat in NY, somethings never change and its snowed about 10" inches which after 28" in december this no longer constitutes a snow day. Sorry groms no snow day for you.